Growing up in a Mediterranean household no meal was complete without a large glug of extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), be it drizzled on a salad or to lightly fry fish or meat. It’s how my parents and grandparents explained their youthful glow.

But then, in the early 1990s British TV chef Anthony Worrall Thompson seemingly started us believing that cooking with olive oil was dangerous. As such, along with most households, we made the shift to cooking with sunflower oil. Fast forward another decade or two and the oil debate continues, only now there are new enemies on the scene. Today, growing suspicion falls on highly-processed seed oils – and that includes the sunflower oil we switched to.