I’m laying on my back looking up at a bag of my bright red blood.
My nurse, Maew, says: “Your blood is really good.”
“Really?” I say. I’m surprised and happy, and I feel tears well up in my eyes.
“Really,” she says, smiling and patting my arm. “Top 10 percent.”
Interviewing Kamalaya founders Karina and John Stewart on the Livehealthy podcast was my first exposure to Kamalaya. Located on the lush Thai island of Koh Samui, the glowing reputation of this gorgeous resort is rapidly spreading across the Middle East. In fact, when I told a switched-on, Abu Dhabi-based integrative dietitian that I was heading to Kamalaya, she replied with: “Ooohhhhh. That is the place.”
The above refers to my experience of Ozone therapy, a treatment that the forward-thinking founders have been offering for almost two decades. Ozone therapy involves taking a molecule made up of three oxygen atoms and adding it to the blood in gas form. This increased blood oxygen level is thought to help us heal and aid with replacing or repairing damaged cells. My doctor back in Dubai recommends it for gut health, and it made a huge difference to the state of my own.
I’ll get to the overall experience soon. But first: why did I get tears in my eyes when I saw my blood? Because (despite exercising and eating right my whole adult life) I have suffered from more than two decades of gut issues. Then, in late 2022, my health exploded: I had a (low) hypothyroid, an autoimmune condition called Hashimoto’s thyroiditis, adrenal fatigue, my first ever pre-diabetic readings and a rapidly worsening non-alcoholic fatty liver. After a confusing experience trying to get care in the mainstream system, I’d finally found an integrative physician who treated me as a whole person, not a collection of unconnected organs. By the time I arrived at Kamalaya, I was starting to heal but still not feeling great. Bloated, puffy, exhausted and sad, my ankles were swollen, my was brain foggy, and my mood was low and anxious.
I was there for the Comprehensive Balance & Revitalize program, an experience designed to tackle stress and burnout. There are 17 programs to choose from, ranging from detox and weight loss, to gut health, resilience and more.
I was worried the doctors might make me second-guess the care path I’d chosen, but instead looked carefully at my treatment plan and made helpful suggestions. The Functional Medicine Doctor suggested I skip taking ashwaganda as it might exacerbate my still-troubled gut, and that I add Vitamin A into my diet to help my thyroid. She was right on both accounts, and I felt thoroughly seen and heard.
My acupuncture session with the Traditional Chinese Medicine doctor was so good I booked another one on the day I left. She gave me loads of helpful advice to get my liver qi (energy) moving again, and I floated out of both sessions.
The rest of my time was heavenly. The constant flow of treatments included top-notch foot, hand and full-body massages, all spaced evenly throughout the week to promote maximum relaxation. Shirodhara, which delivers a steady drip of oil onto the third eye and a healing dose of Ayurveda, was another highlight. Afterwards, my therapist told me exactly what to do to get all the thick oil out of my hair, and it worked.
Positioned on the side of a mountain, the setting was beautiful. Even the steep walk up and down was a positive. Excruciatingly difficult in the beginning, it got easier by the day and it was a positive reminder that our bodies are made to build strength, we just need to put in a bit of work and repetition.
The food was easy on my digestive system, and soon I was tolerating everything. Breakfast at Soma was a gorgeous buffet heaving with vegetables, fruit and fermented foods. Lunch at Amrita Cafe overlooking the beach was so stunning I had to pinch myself as I devoured a stream of rainbow-colored salads, each one more glorious than the last. During dinner back at Soma, I mostly dined on grilled ostrich loin, tiger prawns or yellow fin tuna with steam-stirred bok choy or Shiitake mushrooms. Most meals started with a cup of bone broth. To aid with my digestion, the staff were super accommodating in giving me apple cider vinegar in water before I ate. No one batted an eye when I ordered coffee, and alcohol is available, too.
My room was spacious, bright, peaceful, and impeccably stocked and kept – there was even a pillow menu. I loved the open-air shower and the different fruit that was offered daily. The never-ending, soul-healing concert of birds (day) or insects (night) was immensely soothing.
Outside of your room, you’ll find many idyllic nooks and crannies where you can while away the hours. My favorite was a hammock down by the beach or, if you’re feeling spiritual, there’s also a cave that was once used by Buddhist monks.
One of my bugbears at resorts is never having enough bottles of drinking water in the room. But at Kamalaya this was not an issue. I had more than I could ever want, all served in recycled bottles. Kamalaya is entirely devoted to conserving water, they’ve installed water-efficient shower heads and low-flush toilets, and they use recycled water for the gardens.
There are loads of extra sessions that you can join in with as well. I tried Qi Gong from two different teachers – San Bao and Kanita – and I found the practice of shifting my energy with slow, easy movements and breathwork to be mood-altering and life-changing (I’ve continued to do it with an app upon my return). I even had a Bastien Gonzalez treatment – the only pedicure where you won’t want to get any polish – and not only do my toes still look great, I was also treated to a next-level chat with my practitioner Mathieu.
But the best part of the week was a stress management session with a teacher named Srini. Our 90-minute conversation was nothing short of life-changing, and I am still feeling and practicing what I gained from him. He is an incredibly special soul, and I feel very grateful that I was able to learn from him – and shift my perspective so dramatically.
I’ve been to several luxury wellness resorts before but, no matter how high the price, there were always niggles. Either the food wasn’t quite right, I felt like I was constantly being upsold, or I spent good money on a top-billed practitioner who didn’t measure up. None of these things were an issue at Kamalaya. In fact, the service was perfect. The practitioners are all at the top of their craft, and their knowledge runs deep. For the longevity seekers and biohackers out there, Kamalaya offers a range of cutting edge tests, including high-sensitivity preventative cancer screening. If I had any complaint, it would be the body measurements taken at the start of the week. I’m sure there are people who want to know their BMI and waist-to-hip ratio, in addition to about a dozen other markers, but I’ve been around long enough to know that humans come in all sizes, and there is no “normal”.
I arrived at Kamalaya struggling emotionally and physically, and left feeling lighter in mind and body than I had in years. Two months later, I have energy, good mood, my brain works and I can see a much-brighter future ahead. I can only describe my time at Kamalaya as a pivotal and profound stage in healing my mind, body and soul.
• Kamalaya Koh Samui wellness center is quite easily reached from Abu Dhabi or Dubai, via transiting through Phuket, Bangkok or Singapore. Prices vary according to package and time of year.